Dessert First

Yield: 1 1/2 cups

Cook’s notes: After trying for years to like my food processor as a nut grinder, I’m back to what my mother brought me up on: the simple, $8 nut mill. With a hand crank below a hopper to hold the nuts, and a glass jar for chopped nuts to fall into, this decidedly un-techie gadget works the best at chopping nuts evenly and without creating a lot of nut dust. Candied cashews are quick and easy; just be sure to stir so they don’t burn. They taste wonderful in a salad with pears and goat cheese, or with dried cranberries or apricots.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup sugar (granulated or brown)

1 1/2 cups roasted cashews (salted or unsalted; if unsalted, you may want to add a pinch of salt to the butter)

In a medium skillet (preferably cast-iron or nonstick) over medium heat, melt the butter; add sugar and cook, stirring, until dissolved. Add the cashews and cook, stirring, until they are lightly toasted, about 4 minutes. Spread onto a piece of parchment paper or a lightly greased baking sheet to cool.