Yields: 2 pizzas, serving 8 to 10

Cook’s notes: It’s important to know how hot your fire is, so the dough doesn’t scorch. When in doubt, lower the heat, or, if using charcoal, try to slide the dough to a cooler area of the grill. Water for this recipe should feel pleasantly warm on the inside of your wrist.

1 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast

2 cups all-purpose flour (preferably unbleached)

1 teaspoon coarse (kosher) salt

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

Toppings of choice (see below)

In a medium bowl (or, preferably, in the bowl of a stand mixer), whisk together yeast, flour, salt, sugar and cocoa powder. Stir in water and 2 tablespoons oil until well-blended. By hand, transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead until dough is smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes; return to bowl. With a stand mixer, mix on speed 3 with the dough hook for 4 minutes, or until smooth and elastic. (Add flour a tablespoon at a time if dough seems too sticky — but keep it moist.) Brush top of dough with a little of the remaining oil and press a large sheet of plastic wrap onto it. Leave to rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours (when doubled, dough will not spring back when a finger is lightly pressed into it).

Prepare grill for a medium fire (if needed, brush grill thoroughly to remove residue from earlier grilling). Gently press dough down and place on lightly floured surface; cut in half. Roll each half into a 10-inch circle (if dough won’t roll easily, cover and let it rest for 5 minutes before trying again). Brush both sides of each circle with oil and place on upside-down baking sheets.

Slide crusts onto grill (or flip them quickly with your hands). With grill closed, cook for 2 minutes. Flip crusts and grill for about 4 minutes. Quickly add toppings and grill about 1 minute more, until bottoms are crisp. Serve immediately.

Toppings: Almost anything goes here, but to get you started, try a thin (about 3 tablespoons) layer of jam (whisk it first to make it quick and easy to spread), topped with a soft fruit (such as strawberries, plums, or raspberries). If you like, sprinkle that with chocolate chips or grated chocolate (milk or dark), or drizzle with chocolate sauce. Peaches, pears, pineapples and apples all grill beautifully and would complement the crust better than raw fruit. Or try a sweet cheese, such as whipped cream cheese or mascarpone, whipped with a little confectioner’s sugar and/or jam. I prefer to put this topping on just in the last 30 seconds, so it doesn’t melt completely and make a drippy mess. Or consider beating a little cream cheese with some peanut butter to spread on the crust; top with bananas that have been halved and grilled about 5 minutes.

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